A lot of wax and grease removers are no longer legal for shops to use, especially spraying them out of a can. Oh, paper towels work best as well. When you have a reason to believe there is a particularly bad contaminant you may need to go to a stronger cleaner. Originally posted by WaterWing: You want to Liquid Glass to your test. It will attack some soft substrates like lacquer and uncured enamel but if you are using it before sanding you can correct that.
You spray the panel and then wipe it off. Any person utilizing this document should seek competent professional advice to verify and assume responsibility for the suitability of this information to their particular situation. Unless you are loaded and get rid of boats every 3 years, you are going to regret your lack of maintenance. I use this system all the time and we use it everyday at work at the body shop. Collinite 476s is the best, longest lasting paste wax I have ever used car and boat.
It is mainly pH dependent. A car's finish is urethene and will hold up to alot more than gel-coat. Use and application of any of the site's content is at the user's own risk. My boat is covered in my driveway. Alot also has to do with the method of washing for cars.
A very slow evaporating cleaner. Anything that leans more to acidic usually won't. I also had the paint sealant on 3 of my vehicles; never had to wax any of them and after 2 years they still looked like new. . It works great, but it most definitely strips wax. I did the aileron in three pieces of Flite-Metal as I was not comfortable doing such a large piece on my first try. I think I have some, but it's old.
My car has sat in my driveway uncovered for 2 years, still looks like new when washed. Use this general purpose wax and grease eliminator before sanding and priming the surface. For you guys that are into painting your machines ,and who are novices at it ,I thought I'd let you know that the above mentioned chemical cleaner is great for removing wax and oil and grease from the metal surface before you paint it prime it. I usually wipe no more than a half a panel at a time. My boat is covered in my driveway. It is a great polish, but it's no wax, despite what they say. Now a days the disposable rag is king.
Check it again in a month during winter. Refer to the Material Safety Datasheet to stay armed with safety information. . I can tell if a car has been detailed after neglect. I checked on our paint dept. Zymoil will be the hardest to get off. Clean rags are one of the most important item you can have in a shop.
It will probably get a coat of something-Vertiglas, or some other sealer-but waxing is time intensive and pretty ineffective. Go to your paint store and get the real thing. In the last few years this has gotten much easier to do. Hopefully this info will help you choose the best cleaner for the job. This will help promote an even, mirror-like finish. It was a daily driver and still looked awesome. It is essential to note that this product is not compatible with all surfaces and may also be dependent on some conditions.
I use Flagship and or TechWax and they hold up a whole season. It's like boat dealers; there are good ones, and there are bad ones. Here is a quote from a company that makes fiberglass pools: Can you imagine someone dropping several hundred thousand or even millions on a large gelcoat covered yacht and having to resurface it in 5-10 years? Be sure to use the proper cleaner and wipe it dry really well. More will come after I complete the second phase with the aileron being left out in the sun all day. When should you wipe the surface? I do that regardless of the current paint condition or cleanliness of the vehicle. The gallon will last you through many projects, a few cars even. Should only use them as a last resort.