I tried everything I could think of to fix it, less of cutting the canister open. The next morning after sitting all night I checked codes again, no light yet, but all the same codes are pending again. Here's what it looks like prior to removal: Next, you will need to disconnect any of the three emissions hoses connected to the charcoal canister, and then you will need to disconnect one electrical connector. This is a record of my triumphs and occasional failures as a technician for a Toyota dealership. This is the first time I have had a check engine light in 200K miles. When I took mine apart gas poured out if the pump so there was no saving that lol.
I also take the pump apart were I found heavy rust and rusty water inside the pump. I will find out next week if that fixes the issue of difficulty adding fuel. It was then I figured out that all that dirt and gravel was blocking the drain holes, and forcing the rain water into the vent line and eventually into the canister. Labor will vary depending on who you go to. Today, a brand new Tundra with 711 miles showed up at the shop with a multitude of evaporative emissions diagnostic trouble codes. While this could be many things it is my best guess, based on the history with Toyotas which this car kind of is , that it is a charcoal canister that has gone bad. When I removed the rock shield it was full of dirt and gravel.
And last the jack from our truck. They just change the canister and they never had a customer come back with the same problem later. The canister houses a vacuum pump that comes on once a week, usually at night as I understand, and spends 5hrs sucking down the emissions hoses to check for leaks. These trouble codes all relate to malfunctions in the evaporative control system, the emmissions control system that traps gasoline vapors and prevents them from being vented into the atmosphere. The car drives fine otherwise and I'm comfortable with, and have the tools to do the work myself.
Hope this helps you or anyone else. Do you think I could just have the canister changed and forget about the fix, while saving a good amount of cash? The car was still running fine, so I disconnected the battery this weekend and erased the codes. I am not sure how the water got in where it does not belong, but here in California we have had a ton of rain and a lot of roads I drive have been partially flooded so I can only think that played a part in it. If diagnosis shows a bad canister, get a new one. Looks like it could be that charcoal canister, but also the leak detection pump connector as well? Please what does this mean? Possible problem with fuel lines or cap? Thanks a lot for any help. Most likely you have encountered the same problem as the rest if us, overfilling the gas tank and flooding the charcoal canister.
He had never seen this issue before when I had contacted him. After I blew out the vent assembly and made sure the drain holes were clear I put the gravel shield back on. So Wetback1 here is a semi brief description of the issue. Also my filter was packed with sand from the dunes, and had a crack so I bought a new one. After all the hoses and electrical connector have been disconnected, remove the 4 bolts holding the canister to the crossmember. Yesterday when starting the vehicle after sitting all day at work the check engine light stayed on.
If anyone is following this thread, or maybe it will help someone in the future. The other is if your canister box is completely filled with hydrocarbons. The long-chain hydrocarbons of gasoline are a pollutant. Ranging from your fuel cap to your purge vent valve to your canister box. This is the second time I have replaced the Leak Detection Pump! How can I be sure which one it is? This second pump module is likely what failed if you have all five codes. The canister is located behind the gas tank, towards the rear of the truck. The car was at the Toyota dealer today.
My scan gauge indicated codes P043E, P043F, P2401, P2402 and P2419. It seems easily accessible and not to hard to replace considering you have to remove the fuel tank assembly too. I am planning to purchase a used part on Ebay soon and then get the car on my rack to perform any diagnostics I can. If you are a victim that loves to see your tank overfilled to the extent of fuel gushing out of the fuel tank. Thanks as you all respond. Possible causes: Bad wiring connection to the vacuum pump Plugged filter Canister filled with fuel Bad vacuum pump No, a used canister could have the same problem.
I checked and tested the while evap system with standard non special tools and can give ya guys a walk thru if ya would like. I want this Check Engine Light off completely. Based on past experience and reading I am aware that the vehicle runs an evaporative system test to check for leaks and system integrity after the vehicle has been off for approximately 5 hours. I expect they have the same problem. I had 123,000mi on the truck when the codes first appeared.